DO NOT ORDER PARTS FOR THE ES-Kape 2.0 Unless The Item Says It's Available For The 2.0!!

The MOKAIis one of the most versatile watercraft of it's kind, giving the opportunity to go places other motorized craft cannot imagine. With some modifications it can be even more versatile and more reliable. Many of these boats have issues with the crankshaft and pump shaft being misaligned, due to the nature of the plastic hull and the flex it allows. This causes damage to the hex / spline shafts and coupler. The Lovejoy coupler used in my clutch system design utilizes a Urethane isolator, which effectively functions as a u-joint, and alleviates any problems with misalignment and flex, even the new ES-Kape has shown to have alignment issues. A billet aluminum cup contains the coupler to the clutch, but allows it to free float, which will prevent wear to your shaft since there is no longer the binding of the factory coupler. Motor, and pump, removal will continue being tool free operations. When properly installed, the Painless Neutral Clutch will make your MOKAI operate smoother and last longer, not to mention safer and more convenient.






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 Painless Clutch (All Models)

Stop your Mokai NOT your Motor!!


Hull Bearing Grease System   (All Models -2018)



 Quit pulling your Engine and Pump out to grease the hull bearing!!

Pump Rebuild  (All models & 2.0) Your pump should move water, not be filled with it! This rebuild is recommended for all models and converts the design to oil lubrication. 
Aluminum Wear Ring  (All Models &2.0)



This is your last wear ring - Can be resurfaced forever with JB Marine Epoxy and will not hurt your impeller!!

Steering Relocation (2000-2013)



Tired of hitting your leg on the steering stick? Move it up to the deck for the ultimate in comfort and control!!

Replacement Steering Cable (2000-2013)



Replace the old tired steering cable on your classic one piece hull Mokai for a huge savings over the factory!

Windshield  (All Models & 2.0) 



Keep the wind and spray off of you with this heavy duty polycarbonate windshield. Fits all models!

Magnetic Oil Fill Plugs (All Subaru)



 Protect your Subaru engine from leaks and metal shavings with these magnetic oil fill plugs!!


Shaft Rebuild (All Models to 2018)



 I can rebuild your stripped shaft, or convert your pin or hex profile shafts to the current splined configuration!! 

Servo Grommets  

(ES-kape V1)



Proper mounting grommets for the throttle servo, heat and vibration are a servo's worst enemy!

Steering/Throttle Conversion  

(ES-kape V1)



 Tired of not being able to control your ES-kape? Don't trust servos to take you where you want to go without fear of being stranded? Convert your ES-kape to direct cable control for throttle and steering. Quick release and completely awesome, you NEED this if you want a reliable boat!! 

Bow Handle/ Tie Down  

(ES-kape V1)



Don't rely on the plastic handle! Bow eye also added to tie your boat down when trailering. This Painless handle won't let you down!

Pump Guard 

(ES-kape V1)



Don't leave your pump hanging out there all by itself to get hit... Protect it and it's plastic steering nozzle from damage with this sturdy steel pump guard!!

Aluminum Steering Nozzle 

(ES-kape & 2.0)

The final piece to the puzzle for protecting your investment. No need to trust that plastic steering nozzle to the harsh conditions you are trying to ES-kape™ to! My cast aluminum steering nozzle is over engineered for maximum durability and is a direct bolt on replacement. 




Q: Is any modification required to install the Painless Clutch?

A: Only on the ES-Kape models, the muffler needs a minor modification to allow clearance. Otherwise no, the Painless Clutch simply replace the existing factory coupler. No clutch is available for the 2.0 model.


Q: My pump shaft is showing a lot of wear, is it ok to use your coupling system to stop it from stripping?

A: While my coupling system will prevent damage from occurring, it is not recommended to use worn parts with it. It is recommended that you send your pump to me for repair first.


Q: Do I have to take the coupler retention cup off to install the clutch to the crankshaft?

A: It is possible to use a 1/4 drive 1/2" socket, through the back of the splined coupler, to install the clutch. However, this method is a good way to accidentally cross thread the bolt, or bind the clutch hub to the crank, if there is anything to interfere with the fit. Please follow the directions provided for a trouble free installation.


Q: Why does my clutch make a ringing sound at idle?

A: This is caused by the idle being too high, and it's keeping the clutch right before it's point of engagement. Adjust your idle speed accordingly and the ringing will go away.


Q: Why does my clutch make a ringing sound during engagement?

A: This is normal for engagement speeds set faster than 1900 rpm, the clutch drum is acting like a "bell" and can make some noise during the in-between stage of engaging with the clutch shoes. If you can achieve an idle speed lower than 1700 rpm, I can lower your engagement speed to 1900 which is virtually silent after break-in.

Q: What makes your pump rebuild different from the factory rebuild?

A: I use a completely different design that utilizes a thrust bearing and a totally different sealing system that positively seals the housing so it can be filled with Amsoil gear oil. While the factory method has been in use for many years, just about every pump I've rebuilt has been full of water (to include the new ES-Kape), and relying on the bearings seals to keep the water from destroying them and washing out the little bit of grease they contain. The stock bearings were never intended for the axial loads they are being subjected to, and enormous amounts of friction and heat are the result. This causes pressure in the housing to escape past the front seal and allows water to be sucked back in during cooling while stopped. My design uses bearings meant for axial loads and a smaller diameter seal which is better for no heat buildup and better reliability. I also repair any holes in the housing from casting defects. 

Q: How did you get an ES-Kape to go 20 mph when mine won't even do 15 mph?

A: The governor was removed from the crankcase, and the servo was directly connected to the carburetor linkage.  And a high compression EX17 cylinder head was installed to give the motor more compression, thus more power. Plenum was enlarged for better cooling and a separate cold air intake was fabricated. Weight plays a big factor in top speed also, I weigh 165 lbs. Every extra 15 lbs seems to drop the speed approx 1 mph.



All sales are final. If the incorrect item was purchased, it can be exchanged for the right one. There are exceptions that could be considered based on the situation, contact me with any questions. 


Contact / Shipping info: 


Painless Enterprises

138 Way St. SE.

Ludowici, GA 31316







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